April 20, 2012

La Pietra Cucina

This restaurant now has a new chef: Click here to read more.

An Atlanta native, Executive Chef Bruce Logue has worked in restaurants throughout Italy and the United States, including a stint at Mario Batali's Babbo in New York City. He helms the kitchen at La Pietra Cucina.

His menu offers a twist on authentic Italian dishes. Proscuitto di Parma is served with pineapple mostarda. Gabby's Extruded Fettucini with wild mushrooms is topped with crispy kale chips. Grilled Squash Panino is stuffed with buffalo mozzarella, arugula and pickled onions.

The results are impressive and worth a closer look.

Bottom Line: Serves delicious Italian indulgences in an elegant setting.

La Pietra Cucina on Urbanspoon

April 19, 2012

Virginia Cocktail Peanuts

Virginia Cocktail Peanuts are setting out to challenge common notions about America’s favorite nut.

I live in Georgia, which is the nation's No. 1 producer of peanuts. But Virgina isn't just the name of the state growing these peanuts, it's also the name of the specific peanut varietal being grown -- a type of peanut that's significantly larger than what's commonly grown in Georgia.

These Virginia peanuts are quite delicious. They're plump, crispy, salty -- I tested the sea salt version -- and not in any way “oily."

According to the press materials, "their consistency differs from all other brands." These nuts are carefully hand-prepared, first soaked in water for a full hour (which helps the nuts build resistance to oil absorption) before briefly dropped in hot organic canola oil.

Virginia peanuts grow in southeastern Virginia, northeastern North Carolina and South Carolina. Virginia Cocktail Peanuts uses only product grown in Virginia.

Virginia peanuts are the largest of the four peanut types (others are: Runner, Spanish and Valencia).

"Large Virginia peanuts are hard to obtain," the press materials state. "The highest grade of Virginia peanuts, super extra large, accounts for a very small percentage of the Virginia peanuts produced in the United States. These superior quality peanuts are select and difficult to find."

Virginia Cocktail Peanuts are now available worldwide via online order and in specialty grocers across the U.S. They are available in Sea Salt, Unsalted, Jalapeño, Cajun, Toffee and Milk Chocolate flavors.

Bottom Line: According to the National Peanut Board, more than 1,000 new products with peanuts or peanut butter have been created in the past five years. This tasty treat is worthy of notice in the crowded field.

Desserts @ Parish

Pastry Chef Derek Van Cleve brings fresh creativity to Parish Foods & Goods. The Le Cordon Bleu grad admits the “exactness and tradition of methods” and “chemistry based” aspects of pastry making appeal to him. But what makes his dishes like banana bread pudding with salted toffee sauce and walnut molasses ice cream or apple walnut fritter with caramel and soft whipped cream so memorably fantastic is his talent for pairing flavors and textures.

Luckily, his dessert menu offers a sorbet trio--because choosing just one flavor would prove impossible.

Parish Foods & Goods on Urbanspoon

Leoci’s Trattoria

Chef Roberto Leoci, recently named Savannah's “Best Chef” by Connect Savannah, helms Leoci's Trattoria.
The menu features authentic Italian cuisine, from homemade pastas to brick-oven pizzas, risotto to cannoli, roasted meats to olives so delicious they regularly convert folks who thought they hated olives into ardent fans.

Dishes are crafted from fresh ingredients--local, as much as possible--and "mingled with a savory simplicity," he says.
“Importing food from Italy defeats the whole purpose of Italian food as I was raised and trained to understand it,” he explains. “The true basis of Italian food is local ingredients, no matter where you’re cooking it.”

As just one example, Leoci sources pigs from Savannah River Farms, just north of the city, for the pork that he transforms into Italian sausage, pancetta, salami and guanciale.

Pasta, bread and sauce are made fresh every day. Bolognese with a little farmer’s cream is a favorite, but foodies gush about Leoci’s pasta alla carbonara. Instead of mixing the egg in with the sauce as in the traditional preparation, the chef places a poached egg atop the pasta, bacon and cheese as a deconstructed classic.

The menu at Leoci’s is inspired by the chef’s boyhood in Bari, on the heel of the Italian boot. After completing Cordon Bleu training and years working as a private chef and running hotel kitchens and restaurants, he brings his talents to Savannah.

Bottom Line: Don't miss this Italian culinary gem when visiting Savannah, Georgia.

April 6, 2012

Desta Ethiopian Kitchen

Atlanta's "Little Ethiopia" neighborhood (off I-85 at the intersection of Briarcliff and Clairmont) is home to six Ethiopian restaurants plus an Ethiopian grocery shop. The shining star among the options is Desta Ethiopian Kitchen, which counts even Atlanta's Iron Chef America winner Chef Kevin Rathbun among its fans.

Ethiopian dining is a “hands-on” experience since the meal is traditionally consumed not with forks but with pinched pieces of injera, a spongy sour flatbread made of teff flour.
Scooping up bites in this manner means that what starts out as brightly hued mounds of food on a large shared platter transforms into one brownish blur as the meal progresses. I can't recommend this experience for a first date. Fortunately, Desta does allow eating utensils upon request.

Desta co-owners Ashenafi Nega and Titi Demisse modernize classic recipes by toning down spice levels (that can be tailored to order) and ramping up the freshness and quality of ingredients. Fish is delivered daily and vegetables are sourced locally while spices are imported from “back home,” says Nega, including cardamom and berbere, a blend of dried ground chilies, garlic, ginger, basil, pepper and the fenugreek herb.

The best-selling vegetable platter presents eight delicious concoctions. Kitfo (beef tartar), fish tibs (sautéed marinated tilapia), and dulet (ground beef, liver and trip sautéed in house spices) are also popular. Desta means joy or happiness in the Amharic language, which is how this place makes diners feel.

Bottom Line: Atlanta's best Ethiopian dining option.

Desta Ethiopian Kitchen on Urbanspoon

Davio's Northern Italian Steakhouse


On a recent Sunday evening, Dean and I discovered what might be the best deal in town.

Davio's Northern Italian Steakhouse, located at Phipps Plaza in Buckhead, offers "Unlimited Pizza & Pasta" every Sunday evening. For just $20 per adult ($10 per child) get as much pizza and pasta as you can eat.

Served family-style off a limited menu that changes each week, the multi-course meal includes a starter--which on this particular evening was Baby Arugula, Shaved Parmigiano, Lemon Olive Oil (typically $8 on the lunch menu). The featured pasta was angel hair with pomodoro sauce and fresh basil (typically $15 on the lunch menu). Two pizzas were offered: Margherita Pizza with sliced tomato, fresh basil and bufala mozzarella (typically $11); and traditional pepperoni (not on menu).

The best news: Not everyone at the table has to order the special; other guests can order a la carte. Even better: You can pack up leftovers to-go, Davio's provides convenient microwave-safe containers. Thus for $20 it's possible to enjoy dinner plus lunch for the next day.

Bottom Line: Great food, super deal. All served in attentive, swanky style.

Davio's Northern Italian Steakhouse on Urbanspoon

April 5, 2012

Three Can’t Miss Taste Fests

Love to sample tasty sips and bites? Get these three events on your calendar.

While I spend much time asserting Atlanta’s culinary accomplishments, I hope to never miss these three events in neighboring Southern states. Regardless of how high the cost of a tank of gas may rise, these events have proven to be well worth the expense.

READ MORE

April 4, 2012

Golden Onion - Chef Competitors

Twelve Georgia chefs will soon reveal new layers of their own talent as well as the versatility of the famous Vidalia onion.

The inaugural Golden Onion professional cooking competition will be held on Sunday, April 22, 2012, in Vidalia, Ga., as the official kick-off to the 35th Annual Vidalia Onion Festival. This new professional cooking competition showcases the Vidalia onion, Georgia’s official state vegetable, and also offers a new platform for chefs across Georgia to display their skills and creativity.

From the mountains to the coast, fine dining to casual eateries, new business ventures to long-standing community mainstays, the 2012 roster of chef competitors represents a cross-section of Georgia restaurants and cuisine:

Chef Jamie Allred, executive chef at Lake Rabun Hotel & Restaurant in Lakemont, Ga., launched his culinary career at age 20 by working as a dishwasher at Chetola Resort in Blowing Rock, N.C. He quickly worked his way up to line cook. Having discovered his life’s passion, he later enrolled in culinary school at Asheville-Buncombe Community College (AB-Tech) in Asheville, N.C. His resume includes stints at The Ritz-Carlton, Amelia Island, Fla.; Eseeola Lodge in Linville, N.C.; Ophelia’s World Café in Asheville, N.C.; and Zebra Restaurant in Charlotte, N.C. Originally from Winston-Salem, N.C., Allred has been in his current position since 2010 and, as a fan of garden-to-table Southern fare, instituted Featured Farmer Thursday nights. “When Vidalia onions are in season I substitute them in everything I make with onions,” he says. “They give my steaks sweetness, my sauces depth, and my fresh salsas and relishes a mild sweet crunch without overpowering them.”

Chef Costanzo Astarita, executive chef at the new Fig Jam Kitchen & Bar in Atlanta, Ga., is originally from Italy’s Island of Capri. When his food-centric family immigrated to Bermuda, he honed his skills at The Bermuda Culinary School and later in the United Kingdom. In 1989 he settled in Georgia and became the food and beverage director at Château Élan in Braselton, Ga. After revamping the resort’s culinary program, Astarita decided to realize his dream of becoming a business owner. Along with business partner and fellow countryman Mario Maccarone, Astarita launched C+M Gastronomy Group, which includes the restaurants Ciao Bella, Baraonda, Publik Draft House and his newest concept, Fig Jam Kitchen & Bar. Astarita follows his father’s mantra: “Serve the best and freshest, in-season ingredients available. Keep the recipe simple, and let the ingredients stand out in each dish.” He adores “the flavor and versatility” of Vidalia® onions.

Chef Brian Jones, chef de cuisine for Atlanta Grill at The Ritz-Carlton, Atlanta is a native of Chamblee, Ga. He began his culinary career at Carbo’s Café in Buckhead, and then moved on to The Ritz-Carlton Buckhead. Other notable restaurants on his resume include Watershed, Canoe and the 1848 House in Marietta. Jones grew up cooking alongside his grandmother and aunts, appreciating authentic Southern dishes made from daily harvests of the family gardens. He brings that heritage to his menus that brim with varieties of local and regional produce. He is particularly fond of “the first of the year spring Vidalia onions,” he says. “They are extremely versatile and lend themselves to any application. Another element that I like is the uniqueness of the product itself and the story behind the onions and what they mean for our region.”

Chef Justin Keith, executive chef at Food 101 in Sandy Springs, Ga., is a Georgia native. Raised by a single mother who encouraged his help in the kitchen, at age four Keith shocked his babysitter when he had Pillsbury cinnamon rolls cooked, iced, and ready on the table when she arrived. After high school, he cooked in several restaurants on St. Simons Island before attending Valdosta State College, earning a degree in Management while cooking and managing a local restaurant part time. He later graduated from the Scottsdale Culinary Institute, an affiliate of Le Cordon Bleu, in Scottsdale, Ariz. His resume includes stints at Tarbell’s and Eddie Matney’s in the Southwest as well as The Horseradish Grill and Meehan’s Ale House in Georgia. “The flavor of Vidalia onions is fantastic and a wonderful accompaniment with so many other ingredients,” he says. “I grew up eating Vidalia onions and have always enjoyed cooking with them.”

Chef John Mark Lane, executive chef of Elements Bistro & Grill in Lyons, Ga., was born in Charleston, W. Va. He launched his culinary career at age 15, working as a dishwasher at Café Society in Charlotte, N.C. Within a year he’d progressed to sous chef and was creating lunches. By age 16, Lane decided that he one day wanted to cook great food at his own restaurant. A graduate of the Culinary Arts program at Central Piedmont Community College in Charlotte, N.C., he worked at several restaurants including Trio Restaurant, Charley’s and Sonoma Bistro in Charlotte, N.C., and then took some time off from cooking before opening Elements Bistro & Grill in October 2007. “I like cooking with the Vidalia onions because of the sweet flavor,” he says. “The onions are very fresh and caramelize well. They are so versatile to use in dishes ranging from meats to cheesecakes.”

Chef Jared Lee Pyles, executive chef at HD1 in Atlanta, Ga., earned his kitchen stripes while living in Auburn, Ala., by working at local restaurants in a variety of roles from running the front of a restaurant to making pizza. Having settled on pursuing a culinary career, the native of Oxford, Ala., enrolled at Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Atlanta. While completing his studies he worked at Atlanta’s Kyma, moving his way up from commis to saucier. Later working at Woodfire Grill, he learned the art of whole animal butchery and charcuterie, which he ranks among his proudest achievements. Next he worked at Home and later FLIP burger boutique with Chef Richard Blais, both in Atlanta. Pyles was then tapped to help Blais conceptualize the menu for HD1, where he now helms the kitchen. “I love working with Vidalia onions,” says Pyles. “Growing up my father gardened and they remind me of the fresh, natural taste of his straight from the garden vegetables."

Chef Todd Richards, chef de cuisine for The Café at The Ritz-Carlton, Buckhead, Atlanta, Ga., has also worked at The Ritz-Carlton, Atlanta (Downtown) and The Ritz-Carlton, Palm Beach, Fla. His resume includes stints at The Oakroom in Louisville, Kentucky’s only AAA Five-Diamond restaurant; One Flew South, the first fine dining restaurant at Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport; and Rolling Bones BBQ, where he was chef/owner and which was named one of the “Top 10 New Barbecue Restaurants in America” by Bon Appétit. Chef Richards has appeared on Iron Chef America and on NBC’s Today Show. He was named one of “Four New Chefs to Watch in 2012” by Esquire Magazine. “The best part about cooking with Vidalia onions is that you can taste how natural the product is,” he says. “Vidalia onions have a great mineral-like quality that lets you know they were grown in the proper soil, with the proper amount of care. That genuine care for the onions makes it very simple to please any guest at any time. I'm very happy when I use Vidalia onions because they don't take onions for granted.”

Chef Austin Rocconi, executive chef for Le Vigne Restaurant at Montaluce in Dahlonega, Ga., graduated from the California School of Culinary Arts in Pasadena, Calif. Prior to his current position, he worked in kitchens at Kyma, BLT Steak and Canoe restaurants in the Atlanta area. Rocconi favors locally-sourced cuisine and hyper-seasonal ingredients; at Le Vigne he incorporates ingredients from the restaurant's garden as well as from regional purveyors. “The most appealing aspect of the Vidalia onions is obviously the sweetness that offsets the expected harshness of other yellow sweet onions,” he says. “The subtlety of the onion flavor really creates a more versatile product whether cooked or eaten raw. When caramelized, the Vidalia onion creates such a sweetness that sugar is not needed to balance some sauces such as tomato sauce. Vidalia onions, tomatoes and ramps are by far my favorite seasons of the year and something I always plan around.”

Chef Dave Snyder, owner and executive chef of Halyards in St. Simons Island, Ga., first gained cooking experience during his high school years in Michigan. He continued cooking while attending college at the University of Georgia in Athens, Ga., and later graduated from the New England Culinary Institute in Vermont. He then gained experience working at several New York City restaurants, including Les Celebrites in the Essex House Hotel, Union Square Café, The Mark Hotel and Zoe. Returning to Georgia, he worked at Azalea in Atlanta for a brief time before joining J Mac’s Island Restaurant on St. Simons Island. Now as chef and owner of two restaurants, his goal is to develop a team that will enable Halyards and Tramici to expand into a family of restaurants. He enjoys cooking with Vidalia® onions, he says, “because of the very individual flavor they have as well as being a Georgia product.”

Chef Marc Taft, owner and executive chef of Chicken & The Egg in Marietta, Ga., earned a bachelor’s degree from the University of Alabama and then began his career working for the restaurant companies Carlson Hospitality and Brinker International. He has since served as general manager for The Inn at Evins Mill in middle Tennessee, B.A.N.K Restaurant in Minneapolis, Minn., Domaso Trattoria Moderna in Washington, D.C. and Pacci Ristorante in Atlanta, Ga. Taft has also worked as the concept development director for Al Copeland Investments, where he helped develop the Copeland’s Cheesecake Bistro concept, and has held executive chef and corporate chef positions. His experience also includes a stint as the director of food and beverage for the Sheraton Music City Hotel in Nashville, Tenn. Most recently, Taft served as Kimpton Hotels & Restaurants’ director of restaurant operations for the Southeast region where he was responsible for overseeing several restaurants including renowned Area 31 in Miami, Fla., and Central 214 in Dallas, Texas. About Vidalia® onions, Taft says, “the flavor profile makes them easy to blend into dishes because they compliment other ingredients so well; they’re also fantastic alone.”

Chef Hilary White, owner and executive chef of The Hil On the Hill: A Restaurant at Serenbe in Chattahoochee Hills, Ga., grew up in rural Shelby, Ohio, and is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. She spent much of her early career working with Atlanta’s Buckhead Life Restaurant Group and earned particular recognition when, in 2000, she was named the company’s first female executive chef at the award-winning 103 West in Buckhead. When later selecting a location for her own restaurant, she was drawn to the Serenbe community’s collective commitment to sustainability. She opened The Hil in 2007, with her husband, Jim, and her mother, Sandy Pitsch. White has garnered attention in Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, Garden & Gun, The New York Times, Atlanta Magazine, Creative Loafing and many others. She is an active member of Les Dames d’Escoffier, Southern Foodways Alliance and Georgia Grown. Whenever possible, she likes to work on her farmer’s tan and get her hands dirty working at Serenbe Organic Farms. White adores Vidalia® onions’ “sweet flavor, crispy texture and the fact that they come from Georgia.”

Chef Richard Wiggins, executive chef of Spice Market at W Hotel Atlanta-Midtown in Atlanta, Ga., spent his adolescence working in his father’s family-run restaurant. Opting to pursue a culinary career himself, he started as a cook at the Hyatt Regency Grand Cypress in Orlando, Fla. He was quickly promoted within the Hyatt Hotels Corporation to banquet chef at the Grand Hyatt Atlanta. His growth continued and he was promoted to chef tournant at the Hyatt Regency New Orleans, La., and later transferred to the Grand Hyatt Atlanta. In 2006, he joined Starwood Hotels and Resorts as garde manger chef at the Westin Diplomat Resort & Spa in Hollywood, Fla. He was promoted to executive sous chef and spent nearly four years at the resort before returning to Atlanta to lead the Spice Market kitchen at the W Atlanta-Midtown. He says that he enjoys “the sweetness and ability to manipulate the flavor” of Vidalia® onions.

About the Golden Onion
The Golden Onion professional cooking competition challenges 12 Georgia chefs to create and prepare recipes featuring Vidalia® onions. Competing chefs will have one hour to prepare and present their recipes. Lead chefs are eligible to compete, and have the option to work with one assistant. Dishes will be judged on the basis of taste, presentation and creativity. Failure to feature the flavor of Vidalia® onions or making last-minute changes to the recipe that was submitted during the application process may reduce a chef’s final score. Judging will be blind. The First Place champion will be presented the Golden Onion trophy to hold for one year along with a cash prize of $500. The trophy must be surrendered the following year to the next winner. The second place winner will receive $250 and the third place winner $100. All winners will also receive commemorative plaques. The Golden Onion competition will be held at the Vidalia Community Center, 107 Old Airport Road in Vidalia, Ga. The event is open to the public starting at 12:30 p.m. Advance tickets cost $5 per person or $10 at the door. For details visit www.vidaliaonionfestival.com.