Alma Cocina

Alma Cocina opened December 6 in the 191 Building, Downtown Atlanta, Georgia.

This holiday season there are sure to be gifts that you crave and never receive, gifts you get that you decide about two seconds after tearing off the wrapping paper that will be returned, gifts you request and receive and perhaps even gifts you sneak onto your own shopping list and then stuff into your own stocking. But the best gifts are the surprises, those items that you didn't even know you wanted or needed yet you instantly adore. Alma Cocina is just such a gift from Fifth Group Restaurants; it's a very pleasant addition to Atlanta's dining scene.

If you like flavorful food, then prepare to fall head-over-heels in love with the place. Last night's dinner was one of the best meals we've had. Ever. And that's really saying something.

According to the press materials, "Executive Chef Clevenger was the chef/owner of Agave Grill and Mel’s Bar & Grill in Denver receiving such awards as “Best American Restaurant in Denver” and “Top 10 Fine Dining Restaurants in Denver.” Clevenger’s past experience also includes work as a private chef in France. While in France, he staged at two Michelin starred restaurants on the French Riviera: Le Saint Paul Restaurant and Hotel and Le Maximin."

We're lucky he agreed to move to Atlanta.

His menu is billed as "modern Mexican with Latin influences." The quality level is high: This restaurant's most direct competitors in Atlanta are Pura Vida Tapas and Tierra. All three are excellent and a city the size of Atlanta surely has room for all three to succeed--let's all agree to eat there often to be sure, because I don't want any one of them to close.

The menu offers a variety of dishes in multiple sizes, so it would be possible to feast or nibble on tapas-sized portions. Share or hoard. It's up to you.

Pork Pibil Tamale with bacon-corn masa braised in banana leaf, green chile sauce, crema and pico de gallo ($8):

"His tamale recipe has been voted the best in Denver," said our server Emily to recommend the dish, and we're glad that we took her advice and ordered one. It delivers spicy heat that plays off the sweet and savory nuances and a nice balance of corn and meat.

Shrimp Taquitos with chile de arbol, apple, jicama and avocado ($8):

The menu warns these are spicy, and they are, but for our palates they are just right.

One fun aspect of being a food writer is the ongoing discovery of new things. This Mushroom & Butternut Squash Huarache is served with charred red onions, crema, huitlacoche sauce, queso fresco and epazote ($7):

What's a huitlacoche? Until last night, I didn't know either. It's a corn truffle. Who knew there was such a thing as a corn truffle!? Emily says that she tasted a corn truffle in the kitchen once and the flavor is too strong to be enjoyable on its own. But when the chef mixes corn truffle into this sauce (which looks like mole but isn't) it adds a distinctive and pleasant earthy note.

Roasted Chicken Mole Oaxaca with mashed plantains, grilled green beans and sesame seeds ($17):

Every chef's mole is different. This one is very tasty, more savory than spicy hot and not too chocolaty. The side dishes impressed. I thought I was sick of green beans but these persuaded me not to give up on them.

Potato Gratin with poblano and goat cheese ($4):

If I could only eat one thing every day for the rest of my life, I'd have to consider this divine creation.

For dessert we sampled the Tres Leches coconut cake, which is moist and boasts a citrus flavor, and the Chocolate Chipotle cake, which is topped with candied pepper strips.

Between the two desserts, I preferred the chocolate chipotle cake's satisfying balance of sweet and spicy flavors.

We also sampled several bar menu offerings.

The Lay of the Land (left) is a tasty mix of Herradura silver tequila, Poire William liqueur, jalapeno, cucumber and hibiscus salt. Galatas Gland (aka Pisco Sour) is made with hand-squeezed lime juice, pisco and egg white: 

Sangria and AMATITÁN, the restaurant's "top shelf" margarita, features a custom-barreled Herradura “double reposado” tequila, orange Curacao and hand-squeezed citrus juices. It's arguably the best margarita in town:

The restaurant bought a special hand-selected barrel of Herradura--bottles from that barrel populate the back wall of the bar. But eventually supplies will deplete so be sure to get a sip while it's still available.

The Naranjarita features Alma reposado tequila, blood orange infusion, orange brandy and hand-squeezed citrus juices:

All of the cocktails are expertly crafted and well-balanced, but this proved to be my No. 1 favorite of the evening.


Bottom Line: Alma Cocina shares with Sprig the honor of "Best New Restaurant of 2011."