Holiday Sunday Brunch at The Ritz-Carlton Buckhead

By providing an elegant setting in which loved ones are invited to gather and indulge in delicious plenty, Holiday Sunday Brunch at The Ritz-Carlton Buckhead epitomizes the holiday season.

While driving to the hotel, both Dean and I expressed a firm commitment to limit portions. When faced with the reality of more than 50 items, however, we both found it impossible to resist temptation. The buffet offers a day's worth of dining options from traditional breakfast items like eggs benedict and pancakes, to lunch/dinner options like a fresh seafood bar, charcuterie and cheese, pasta and salads, plus an array of seasonal desserts. In addition to self-serve stations that are routinely filled, chefs stand ready to prepare omelets and carve roast meats.

The fun of a buffet is to pick favorites, try new things and keep filling different plates. Where other than a brunch would eggs benedict and caprese salad share the same plate?

Santa wandered through the dining room to greet guests and spread holiday joy. A couple seated near us, celebrating their 40th anniversary, asked if Santa would pose for a picture. "Of course," he laughed. "Do you think I get dressed up like this for nothing?" He then gamely posed with a group of girlfriends, a father and daughter, then me and Dean.

This year the hotel décor is based upon “The Nutcracker.” “We selected the theme in honor of the 50th anniversary of Atlanta Ballet’s Nutcracker,” said Jon McGavin, general manager. “The fantasy Nutcracker setting is rich with imagery and magic, and brings the childlike wonder of the season to life for children of all ages.” Nutcracker-themed vignettes are staged throughout the hotel; for example, colorful two-foot-tall nutcrackers stand guard at Santa’s chair.

Of course, we sampled every dessert. Dean's favorite was the chocolate chip and mint cookie. I most adored the chocolate caramel tart:
But really, no bite of the decadent meal disappointed.

Bottom line: An elegant way to indulge this holiday season.

The Ritz-Carlton Buckhead will host Holiday Sunday Brunch on December 6, 13 and 20 from 11:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Cost is $58 per adult and $28 per child. For reservations call 404-237-2700.

Beer Wars

"Pretty much everything in America that's important is around beer," says one of the talking heads at the beginning of the documentary Beer Wars. This dude (later identified as David Rohr, President of the National Beer Wholesalers Association) may be prone to exaggeration, but it's no overstatement to recommend Beer Wars, which was released nationally on DVD in late September, as a 'must see' to everyone who drinks beer, favors free enterprise and/or loves a dramatic David vs. Goliath story.

Today, there's a larger selection of beer available in the U.S. than in any other country in the world, yet 80% of the beer made in this country is controlled by two companies (one based in Belgium and the other in South Africa and Canada). Americans drank 6,550,000,000 gallons of beer last year (worth $97 billion), but one in every two beers sold was an Anheuser-Busch product. While 1,400 breweries make 60 different types of beer, their market share is less than 5% of all beers sold.

Beer Wars reveals the behind-the-scenes imbalance of the beer industry in an informative and entertaining manner. The story follows two entrepreneurs (Sam Calagione, the founder and President of Dogfish Head, and Rhonda Kallman of New Century Brewing) as they battle the behemoths.

Among the film's revelations:

* The top American-owned brewer Boston Beer Company (Sam Adams) holds less than 1% of the market.

* Anheuser-Busch took 40 years to climb from 12% of the market to 50%.

* Beer is the second most popular beverage in the world after tea.

* On average, every American now lives within 10 miles of a brewery. The freshest beer is found at your local brewery.

* Beer is one of the most regulated industries in America with over 37,000 beer laws.

* The U.S. is the only country in the world with a three-tier system for alcohol distribution (producer, distributor, seller).

* The beer can was introduced in 1935.

Beer Wars is available on DVD nationwide. Buy it direct from the filmmaker now or next year it will be available for rent through Netflix.

Primal Atlanta

"City life = millions of people being lonesome together."
—Henry David Thoreau

Poor Henry never discovered the trick to happy city living: Find your niche. If you figure out what it is that you like to do and start doing it with frequency, you're bound to start routinely bumping into folks who like the same thing. There is no better foundation for friendship than shared interests. I've lived in Atlanta, Georgia for 12 years now and the inaugural "Primal Atlanta" on Saturday, November 21 at SweetWater Brewing Company provided an opportunity to run into several of my favorite people—all fellow foodies and wine lovers (winos?). Because on that evening there was no better place for Atlanta flavor seekers to be. Lonesome? No way.

Organized by my buddy Brady Lowe, founder of Taste Network, Primal Atlanta brought together local butchers and chefs to prepare heritage meats from Gum Creek Farms. Oregon wines and SweetWater brews were poured alongside. Tasty bites ranged from BBQ sandwiches to roasted lamb heads. Scrumptious sips included a white pinot noir, sparkling pinot noir and, well, pinot noir. (Other wine grape varietals were poured, too, but Oregon is known for its pinot noir and so that was my chosen focus.) Among the SweetWater brews available for tasting, this year's Festive Ale was my favorite of the evening.

This being the first Primal Atlanta event, room for improvement exists: better organization and more staff at the entrance to collect tickets, more space between food stalls to distribute the crowd, a deejay who knows how to turn the volume down, and more bacon at the VIP bacon bar so that all the VIPs do indeed get some bacon. I'd also like to see the butchers work in daylight and given more 'center stage' focus, rather than be relegated to side-show status. But overall this was a great event; one that I'm certain folks are already planning to attend again in 2010.

Col Solare

On November 12 at Capital Grille, I attended a wine tasting hosted by Col Solare. A collaboration between Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington and Marchesi Antinori in Tuscany, Col Solare most recently released its 2006 vintage. To celebrate the release in Atlanta, winemaker Marcus Notaro hosted a vertical tasting of six vintages for invited trade and media guests.

We entered the private dining room to discover the wines had already been poured. Fortunately, this is a time-saving approach. Unfortunately, most guests didn't show up so much wine was wasted. A vertical tasting (or sampling one wine from different vintages in chronological order) is a fun way to see how a wine/winery/winemaker is progressing. "There is never a perfect wine," says Notaro. "There is never an end. Even once it's in the bottle we wonder how to make it better." Col Solare grapes grow in a desert region where the climate is cooler than that found in Napa Valley but warmer than Bordeaux. The winemaking partners' goals are to achieve "elegance, balance and age-ability," says Notaro. "The aromatics we like are black cherry, black fruit, currant, cocoa. We want rich, good flavor, complexity but nothing 'edgy,' and structured and full-bodied wine."

Tasting notes:

1995 Col Solare
72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 2% Syrah
* The growing conditions this vintage were very cool
Black pepper, raisin and stewed cherries dominated.

1996 Col Solare
85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot
* The vineyard experienced a freeze this vintage
Similar flavors as 1995, but with a stronger pepper flavor on the finish.

2005 Col Solare
71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc
* 18% of the fruit for this vintage came from Washington's Red Mountain appellation
Smooth with a spicy finish, this wine tasted of juicy dark fruit.

2006 Col Solare
72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot, 2% Syrah
* Warm growing conditions; winemakers were "aggressive during fermentation," says Notaro
Sophisticated, balanced layers of berries and spice. "Now we're getting somewhere," I wrote in my notebook after a sip of this wine.

2007 Col Solare
75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc
* Cool growing season; winemakers favored gentle fermentation
This wine, very recently bottled, was very similar to the 2006 but slightly flatter, an issue that will likely resolve by release date.

2008 Col Solare—Barrel Sample
68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 2% Syrah
Sophisticated wine with great promise, the long finish reveals complex tannins.

Bottom line: The current release, 2006, is tasty. Buy several bottles—some to drink now and some to savor over time. This wine retails for approximately $75.

Food 101

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FIGO Pasta

Today's lunch at FIGO Pasta proved that when prices are affordable it doesn't necessarily mean quality suffers. Since this was my first visit (and since I was dining with a couple of other foodies), we ordered several different dishes to share. Which was great, because it would be a challenge to choose just one entrée. The menu boasts various salads, paninis and appetizers as well as pasta. When ordering pasta, you choose your noodle and your sauce from an extensive list of options. This is the sort of place where you order from a cashier before grabbing a table. But it doesn't mean you won't get any tableside service: the food is delivered by staff that keeps your drink glasses filled, offers Parmesan cheese, delivers bread and pours spicy house-made olive oil to dip it in.

Gnudi (or "naked") is a traditional Florentine blend of spinach and ricotta tossed with melted butter and parmigiano reggiano:
Zucca is butternut squash and amaretto ravioli with a marscapone and Italian red chicory radicchi sauce. This dish was a personal favorite.

It was hard not to lvoe the classic bolognese sauce with beef, onions, celery, tomatoes and red wine over whole wheat long pasta:Also tasty: The Checca Fiorentina sauce is made of fresh tomatoes, mozzarella, garlic, basil and olive oil. We paired it with wild mushroom ravioli.

Every dish tasted great and was priced from $5 to $9 each!

Bottom Line: FIGO Pasta serves quality Italian fare at fair prices, making it an especially great dining option in the current economy.

Amuse!

A word from our sponsor (currently, me): Negative restaurant reviews are the most difficult to write. I never relish smashing someone's dreams or business. But not every restaurant is good.

Last night's media dinner at Amuse! was a major disappointment. Which is not to say it wasn't fun--it provided a chance to see some of my favorite people. But each bite of food made it increasingly impossible to shake the thought, "This place is going to be closed in a week." OK, so it may actually take longer than a week, but frankly I'd prefer to pull the plug and end the suffering.

For Amuse! the former Allegro space (which was a good restaurant and it closed!) has been redecorated "S&M light." Belts adorn the red walls. While waiting for the bartender to pour a drink, it was tempting to tear one down to threaten to whip her up to speed. Seriously, I have never waited so long for champagne to be poured.

The menu:
1 - soupe de poisson with aioli crouton
2 - pate duo: foie gras mousse with pickled blackberries and pate de campagne with onion jam
3 - bass potato, aioli / piglet, brussles / prawn, eau de tomate
4 - flourless chocolate torte, lavender gelato / cheese: toma della rocca with green apple jelly and fig syrup

The first course looked pretty but tasted weird. The second course was too salty and seemed incomplete in that it was missing some sort of crackers or bread or something. Each meat in the third course was so overcooked it was tough. Dessert confirmed a serious flaw that persisted throughout the meal: the flavor combinations simply didn't work.

Media dinners are typically the best experience I'll have of a restaurant: When entertaining a group of 20 or so food writers, the chefs do their best work. Often, when I go back to a restaurant on my own unannounced it's a bit less great. If this is the best effort of Amuse!, sorry, it's not good enough.

Bottom line: There are far better dining options in this city.

November, 2011: I can't believe this place is still open.

Holiday Tea at The St. Regis Atlanta

On Saturday my mom and I enjoyed Holiday Tea at The St. Regis Atlanta.

The über-luxurious St. Regis Atlanta impresses with its elegant space, gorgeous design, relaxing color scheme in soft ocean hues and cream, and attentive yet confidently-relaxed service. (At one point during the quick tour that I gave her, my mom suggested that if you had a cocktail at the bar you'd feel like you had gone on vacation.)

For Holiday Tea we were seated in the Long Gallery overlooking a lit fireplace, some landscape oil paintings and the impressive lobby chandelier. Our friendly server delivered two flutes of champagne while we reviewed the menu and felt utterly fabulous.

The selection of 11 teas is organized into categories: black, green, oolong, white, herbal infusions and fruit tisane. I opted for the organic vanilla rooibos; Mom chose pear tree green. Both bested any tea I've previously sipped.

Accompanying the tea was a three-tiered assortment of savory and sweet treats:
The top tier's sweet potato biscuits and cranberry scones were flaky and delicious on their own, but even better smeared with rose petal and currant jelly or raspberry preserves. (Honey and orange marmalade were also available.)

The tea sandwiches included: goat cheese, olive tapenade and sundried tomato; mini pancetta and leek quiche; roast beef, truffle five pepper mayo, arugula on sour dough; duck prosciutto with fig jam and blue cheese crumbles on brioche; smoked salmon, caper and dill cream cheese on pumpernickel.

Desserts included: white chocolate coconut snowmen; snowflake shortbread window cookies with raspberry jam; spiced cookies; double chocolate sea salt cookies; gingerbread men; dark chocolate mint cupcakes; and vanilla panna cotta with peppermint gelée: Every bite on each tier was tasty, but highlights included the duck prosciutto tea sandwich and double chocolate sea salt cookies. The vanilla panna cotta with peppermint gelée was the sole disappointment in that it wasn't superb just ho-hum (although when Santa arrives for weekend teas on December 4, he'll likely muster a ho-ho-ho).

Holiday Tea at The St. Regis Atlanta is satisfying fun. My only suggestion for improvement is that in future years the November and December teas differ from one another. There's no need to lump Thanksgiving and Christmas into one massive holiday—especially since some folks/potential customers don't celebrate Christmas! Fall boasts such wonderful flavors that the November holiday tea might offer treats showcasing pumpkin, pomegranate, spice, pear, apple and other fall flavors while the December holiday tea could continue to feature peppermint, chocolate and wintery bites. Such an approach would encourage repeat visits, rather than fostering a "been there, done that" attitude. That said, it's still worth enjoying Holiday Tea at least once this year.

Bottom line: An elegant holiday treat that's value-priced for what's sure to be a valued memory.

The Holiday Tea at The St. Regis Atlanta is offered daily through December 30, 2009 from 2:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. with two seatings. On Friday, Saturdays and Sundays beginning December 4 enjoy Tea with Santa. The cost is $38 per person or $42 per person with a glass of champagne. Tea with Santa will be $22 per person. Reservations recommended: 404-563-7910.

The Iberian Pig Kitchen & Bar

Dinner last night was at The Iberian Pig in Decatur, Georgia. The restaurant, which has been open about six weeks, drew a crowd despite heavy rain.

At this Spanish restaurant I was most interested in finally getting to taste Jamón Ibérico (Iberian ham), one of the most prized and expensive cured meats in the world. It's ham in the way that prosciutto is ham, not like the oval, salty spam-like stuff some folks crack out of metal tins on holidays. It's from the cerdo pata negra or black-footed pig that is native to Spain—it’s a special breed found nowhere else in the world. Iberian pigs have a higher fat content than other breeds and are grown specifically for the production of Ibérico hams, cold cuts and sausages. A 1-ounce serving of Jamón Ibérico is on the menu at The Iberian Pig for $14. It was salty with a hint of nuttiness (perhaps implied by the knowledge that within the Ibérico meat category 10% of the pigs are sent to roam in the forests and exclusively eat acorns for the last 4-5 months of their lives—these are Ibérico Bellota, an even more exclusive product that remains on my "need to taste" list). I found it to be very tasty, enjoyable and satisfying; but I am the sort of person who can happily make a meal out of charcuterie and cheese. I feel compelled to note, however, that in a side-by-side comparison with Jamón Serrano, on the menu for $5, the taste difference—though noticable—wasn't dramatic enough to warrant paying an extra $9 for Jamón Ibérico on my next visit now that my curiousity about it has been satisfied.

In addition to cured meats and assorted cheeses from various regions in Spain, The Iberian Pig menu offers salads, tapas, flatbreads, entrées and desserts. The wine list showcases Spanish wines, many of which are available in half-glass, full-glass or bottle portions. In order to maximize the variety of dishes we could taste on this first visit, Dean and I focused on tapas (also known as 'small plates').

Each dish impressed, from wild boar meatballs to manchego mac & cheese with thyme. Huevos con Trufa layers rustic bread, slow roasted pork cheeks, poached egg and black truffles. Tocino con Manzana tops slow-roasted pork belly with apple cider reduction, green apples, candied walnuts and honey-citrus yogurt. I'm not a fan of pork belly but this dish won me over—the tender meat wasn't fatty and the surprising flavor combination was a revelation.

Don't skip dessert. The Dulce de Leche caramel-flavored gelato is amazing. I wish I'd known about Copa Catalan while working on my story about the best desserts in Atlanta: The espresso concoction most certainly would have made my list.

The quality of this food and skill of its preparation surpassed expectations. I predict this new restaurant will win awards and be counted among Atlanta's best restaurants.

Bottom line: Fabulous new restaurant that serves top-quality Spanish cuisine. Add it to your "must go" restaurant list.

Matzoh Ball Soup

When I ordered this soup at Bagel Palace Deli & Bakery in the Toco Hills Shopping Center, the cashier asked if I wanted one, two or three matzohs. I just needed a sample, so went with one. Oh, how I regretted that frugality once I sipped this soup at home. It's fabulous! Boasting big chunks of carrots and celery, it's flavored with hearty chicken plus sprigs of dill. The matzoh ball was light and fluffy (by comparison to others I've had; there's no yeast in a matzoh ball so it's not exactly bread-like). I'd never previously had matzoh ball soup stocked with both matzoh and noodles, which does seem a bit silly and redundant, but does make the soup more filling.

Bottom Line: My small serving was so tasty it left me wanting more.

Wild Georgia Shrimp, Alfredo

After spending 10 days on the coast—researching forthcoming articles in Amelia Island, Florida; Charleston, South Carolina; and Eagle Island, Georgia—I passed a little seafood shop in Darien, Georgia on my way home. At The Georgia Shrimp Company I purchased 3.28 pounds of large, fresh-off-the-boat shrimp for just $18. Amazing!

According to a card I picked up near the cash register, "The Georgia Shrimp Company was founded by shrimp fisherman and dock owners to ensure that quality East Coast Shrimp are always available. The Georgia Shrimp Company - Experience in harvesting and handling "Georgia Sweet Shrimp" since the 1950s." I'd been eating the company's shrimp for a few days while staying at Eagle Lodge on Eagle Island, so I already knew it was tasty. But not until I got it home and started peeling it could I truly appreciate the product's top quality. It was firm, plump and smelled as fresh as the sea. It's without question the best shrimp I've ever purchased.

Two-thirds of the shrimp is in my freezer to enjoy at a later date. But the first third was showcased atop spinach fettucini in alfredo sauce. This is a very messy meal to make since it requires three pans: one to boil the pasta, one to sauté the shrimp and one for the alfredo sauce. But it's well worth the effort.

I make my alfredo sauce from scratch. I learned how to make alfredo sauce from my friend Susan who learned from her mom who'd just returned from a cooking class in Italy (so, I think of it as my 'three-degrees of separation sauce'.) I know how it should look and so I don't actually use a recipe or measure anything anymore (which drives Dean crazy with fear it won't turn out, so I push him out of the kitchen).

6 Tablespoons butter
1½ cups half-and-half or heavy cream
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper, to taste
Nutmeg or oregano, to taste (optional)

Melt butter until lightly browned. Add 1/2 cup of cream and boil rapidly until large bubbles form. Stir occasionally. Reduce heat to medium and add remaining cream and cheese a little at a time, whisking constantly. Season to taste. Heat until desired thickness; should coat a spoon.

To make shrimp alfredo, pour the alfredo sauce over hot pasta and sautéed shrimp. Toss to coat.

I've made this meal many times, but this version was extra yummy because the shrimp were sweet, plump and really perfect. So, thanks Georgia Shrimp Company! I'll be sure to plan driving routes through Darien whenever possible in order to buy shrimp at this shop again. (This former Minnesotan is thrilled to be living in a state with its own shrimp!)

Sparkling wine pairs well with seafood, so we uncorked a bottle of Schramsberg Brut Rosé Vintage 2004. The pink hue matched the shrimp, which wasn't planned. Dry and complex, the flavorful wine delivered pops of cherries jubilee, crisp red apples, crusty bread and luscious peach flavors. Two thumbs way up.

The wine retails for $40.

The Bakery at DeKalb Farmers Market

I've shopped at the great DeKalb Farmers Market for years, but for the first time today I purchased some dessert from the bakery. In the mood for chocolate cake, I had two options based on the supply inside the display case at the time that I shopped: cookies & cream cake for $1.49 per slice or cookies & cream cupcakes for 99¢ each. As you can see by the photo, I went the current-trend cupcake route. What you can't see is that I actually purchased six cupcakes in a mix of cookies & cream, carrot cake, red velvet and coconut varieties.

The cookies & cream frosting tastes EXACTLY like the inside of an Oreo cookie. It's amazing. Unfortunately, the two cupcakes of this flavor that landed in my box were stale. So stale, in fact, that they were inedible. Luckily, I'd bought the other flavors and all of them were fresh and yummy.

Bottom line: The bakery at the DeKalb Farmers Market boasts tasty treats, but when purchasing items remember to ask if they are fresh. Otherwise, you may be disappointed and left with an unsatisfied craving.

FYI, the bakery register is cash-only.

Wiley's Championship BBQ

I couldn't resist stopping at Wiley's Championship BBQ in Savannah for a pulled pork lunch while driving home to Atlanta from Darien, Georgia (where I purchased great fresh shrimp). Here are three insider tips inherently promised by this blog: Wiley's Championship BBQ is the best barbecue joint in Georgia, in my opinion. I couldn't admit that in the article that I wrote for Where Georgia magazine, but I can say it here. Sconyers Bar-B-Que in Augusta is a very close second—it may actually be a tie, but I wasn't driving through Augusta. I wouldn't go back to Sprayberry's Barbecue in Newnan if you dragged me.

Wiley's Championship BBQ boasts juicy-tender meat, scrumptious sauce (which they claim is better than sex; though ultimately that depends on what you think of spicy tomato-based sauce on meat in general and who your bedroom partner is in specific), top-notch side dishes and clean environs in which to eat (something not all barbecue places can boast). Plus the owners are super friendly folks.

I devoured my lunch then bought a pound of pulled pork to bring home to share with Dean. Because it's that good.

Bottom line: For great Georgia barbecue, head to Wiley's Championship BBQ in Savannah. Also, Sconyers in Augusta.

Lowcountry Boil

While staying on a private island, it's certainly an added luxury to have a couple of cooks boat over to prepare dinner. Such was my experience last night on Eagle Island, one of the Private Islands of Georgia. They prepared lowcountry boil, a one-pot dish common along the Georgia and South Carolina coast. Lowcountry boil has many variations; here's Captain Andy Hill's version:
Private Islands of Georgia Lowcountry Boil
Serves 6 - 8

Fill a large pot with water. Leave enough room in the pot to accommodate the food in order to prevent over boiling. Bring water to a boil. Next, prepare the Private Islands of Georgia Cajun Seasoning Blend (recipe below) and add to boiling water.

Private Islands of Georgia Cajun Seasoning Blend

2 sticks butter
1 cup pepper
1/2 cup red pepper
1 cup garlic salt
1/2 cup seasoning salt
1/2 cup celery salt
10 lemons, halved and juiced
10 jalapeno peppers, thinly sliced

Melt butter in large sauce pan on low to medium heat. Mix all of the dry ingredients in bowl and stir with wire whisk. Pour into melted butter and stir with wire whisk until well blended. Pour fresh squeezed lemon juice into pan and stir. Add jalapeno pepper slices and stir. Add mixture to boiling water.

Note: Old Bay Seasoning can be substituted for the Private Islands of Georgia Cajun Seasoning Blend if desired

Lowcountry Boil Food Ingredients

4 pounds shrimp - 1/2 pound per person
2 packages kielbasa sausage cut into 1" slices - or substitute your favorite type of sausage
8 onions, peeled - 1 per person (or more - see note below)
16 new potatoes - 2 per person (or more - see note below)
4 ears of corn, halved - 1/2 ear per person
small bag of baby carrots

Note: Other ingredients that can be added to personal taste are rutabagas, sweet potatoes, crabs, crawfish or the 'kitchen sink.' Adding extra potatoes and onions allows for leftovers that can be used for some great tasting hash browns the following morning.

After adding the seasoning blend to the boiling water, add the food items in order of longest to shortest required cook time. First, add the potatoes and boil 10 minutes. Next, add the carrots, sausage and whole onions. Return to boil. Add corn and return to boil. Then, add the shrimp last. Cook until shrimp are pink in color, approximately 3-5 minutes. Be careful not to overcook the shrimp!

Drain and serve with cocktail sauce, lemon wedges and plenty of napkins.

Note: Outdoor gas cookers are typically used. A large pot on the range can also be used when outdoor gas cookers are not available. Cooking outdoors is fun. Especially when you're staying at Eagle Lodge on Eagle Island and have access to the fully equipped outdoor kitchen!

--Recipe Courtesy of Private Islands of Georgia